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НовостиMarni обвинили в расизме из-за новой кампании — бренд извинился

Рекламные фотографии и тексты назвали колониальными стереотипами

Итальянский бренд Marni обвинили в расизме из-за рекламной кампании шлёпанцев. В ней моделей африканского происхождения сняли в стереотипных «этнических» аксессуарах (среди которых деревянные ожерелья из Филиппин и карибские плетёные шляпы), подписи к фотографиям провозглашали «настроение „Джунгли“», а сами шлёпанцы сопровождались репликой «сильные и блестящие, как племенной амулет». На одной из фотографий и вовсе создаётся иллюзия, что на ногах у модели цепи.

В комментариях к публикации новой кампании в инстаграме бренда люди сразу отметили, что эти изображения — расистские и колониальные стереотипы. Подписчики даже поинтересовались, работают ли в компании исключительно белые люди. Блог Diet Prada написал о кампании и отметил, что её снял Эдгар Азеведо, фотограф африкано-бразильского происхождения, и у арт-директора Джованни Бьянко тоже имеются бразильские корни. «Возможно, что-то потерялось в переводе?» — предположил Diet Prada, добавив, что негативно на бренде отразилась даже не задумка фотографа, а сопутствующие тексты. Так, одну из фотографий сопровождал текст о «Белой Королеве».

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On Friday, Italian brand @Marni , known for its quirky, irreverent take on luxury fashion, sent out an e-mail blast for their new SS20 campaign. In the series of images, which were also simultaneously posted on Instagram, Black models are juxtaposed with some choice words evoking the season’s mood--“jungle mood,” “tribal amulet,” and “barefoot in the jungle” among others. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You might remember H&M’s “Coolest Monkey In The Jungle” hoodie from 2018, which was photographed on a young black boy, and recalled a legacy of simianized representations of Black people as apes and monkeys. Ditto Prada’s “Otto” keychains which caused a scandal later that same year and in the months prior, an incident with Gucci’s blackface balaclava. It was a rough year for fashion brands, but it hasn’t stopped. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Marni’s new campaign is more nuanced, but no less problematic. With the models styled in a smorgasbord of ethnic accessories like Bayong wood necklaces from the Philippines, Caribbean woven grass hats, and other non-descript wooden jewelry (none of which are Marni), the images begin alluding to racist, colonial stereotypes of Black people as primitive, uncivilized, and unmodern people. One model is even painted in clay, evoking tribal bodypaint. In another image that’s since been deleted from the brand’s Instagram account, a link of chains near the model’s feet resulted in some terrible shackle-like optics. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ It becomes a more layered conversation though, when you discover the photographer Edgar Azevedo is Afro-Brazilian. Meanwhile Giovanni Bianco, the art director, is Brazilian-Italian. Was something lost in translation? More context provided by the brand to explain the vision and collaboration with the photographer could have helped in this situation, but needless to say, the damage was done when the marketing team decided on those words. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ These stereotypes are just some of the ways the institution of white supremacy has oppressed, dehumanized, and deprived Black people of their human rights. For yet another fashion brand to reflect these tropes further proves the work that needs to be done to dismantle the pervasive racism throughout the world.

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Marni вскоре удалили фотографии кампании и опубликовали извинение: «То, что задумывалось как кампания, прославляющая красоту африкано-бразильской культуры через объектив бразильского фотографа Эдгара Азеведо, имело противоположный эффект. Наши упущения в процессе утверждения неприемлемы — и за это мы приносим извинения».

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At Marni, we are deeply apologetic for the harm and offense that our latest campaign has caused. What was intended to be a campaign that celebrated the beauty of the Afro-Brazilian culture through the perspective of Brazilian photographer Edgard Azevedo came to fruition having had the opposite impact. Our oversights across the review process are unacceptable - and for that, we are incredibly sorry. The team at Marni is passionately committed to championing inclusivity and celebrating the beauty of diverse cultures throughout the world. As we endeavor to create a more equitable world, through fashion and shared humanity, we sincerely regret that our efforts caused further pain. We have immediately removed these images and we are redoubling our efforts to ensure our processes are carried out with thoughtfulness and intentionality through a strong equity lens. Our entire staff is committed to using this moment as an opportunity to leverage our platform to support and empower more voices and creators of color whose talent and insights are instrumental in creating a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry.

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Креативный директор Marni Франческо Риссо тоже опубликовал заявление в своём аккаунте.

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